Cheers to Laura Chenel for great American goat cheese

artichoke, Zest, chevre

by Jill Silverman Hough

LET'S HEAR IT for Laura Chenel, the doyenne of American goat cheese.

Without Chenel, you might never have enjoyed goat cheese crumbled on a mixed green salad or spread on a sandwich. You might never have had the option of a goat cheese pizza, goat cheese-stuffed chicken breasts, or a goat cheese omelette. Goat cheese might never have been available to quickly and easily dress up a souffle, a dip or a sauce.

It's hard to imagine, considering how ubiquitous goat cheese is today. But 25 years ago, there was no such thing as American goat cheese. What little we did have was imported, expensive and hard to find.

Then in 1979, Chenel went to France to apprentice with Jean- Claude Le Jaouen, the foremost authority on goat cheese production. Upon her return, Chenel combined what she learned with her own ideas. When she offered her cheese to Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, Waters placed a

standing order -- and the rest is history.

Many consider Laura Chenel's goat cheese a signature ingredient in the new American cuisine that was born soon thereafter.

Also known as chevre (French for "goat" and pronounced SHEHV-ruh or just SHEHV), goat cheese is usually a soft, fresh-style cheese akin to cream cheese. But just as there are many types of cow's milk cheeses, goat's milk cheeses can range from moist and

spreadable to dry and firm. All are chevre, but in vernacular, most use "chevre" to mean the spreadable type.

What all goat cheeses have in common is that unmistakable goatiness -- bright, tangy and a little barnyard-y. It's that unique earthiness, plus the seductively soft texture, that makes goat cheese such a delicious addition to so many dishes.

If you need more reason to go goat, consider this: goat's milk is more easily digestible than cow's milk and so usually a good choice for the lactose intolerant. Plus, it's lower in calories, fat and cholesterol.

Nowadays, America has many artisan goat cheese producers, especially Northern California, home to Redwood Hill Farm, Skyhill Napa Valley Farms, and Cypress Grove Chevre, to name a few. The number of goat milk products is growing -- recently I've enjoyed Skyhill's goat milk yogurt and Laloo's goat milk ice cream.

But they all owe a debt of gratitude to Laura Chenel, as does anyone who has ever swooned over the delicate delight that is goat cheese.

Pasta with Chevre, Baby

Artichokes and Lemon Zest

Preparation is time-consuming, but then the dish cooks up quickly.

16 baby artichokes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup chicken or vegetable stock

Zest and juice of 2 lemons

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

12 ounces shaped pasta (for example, rotelli, fusilli or penne)

2 ounces chevre, crumbled

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

To trim the artichokes: Snap off the outer leaves until you reach leaves that are 2/3 pale yellow. Trim the top third of each artichoke (leaving only yellow parts) and trim the base. Cut each artichoke lengthwise into quarters (put cut artichokes into acidulated water as you work -- 1 quart water plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice or vinegar -- to keep them from browning).

In a large skillet over medium high, heat the olive oil. Drain the artichokes, add them to the skillet, and saute until they're beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the stock, thyme, lemon juice and all but about 2 teaspoons of the lemon zest. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until artichokes are tender, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, cook pasta according to package directions. Drain pasta and return to pot. Add artichoke mixture, goat cheese and parsley, stirring until the cheese melts. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately, garnished with remaining lemon zest.

Serves 3 to 4.

Per Serving: 694 Calories; 14g Fat; 32g Protein; 121g Carbohydrate; 30g Dietary Fiber; 15mg Cholesterol; 1074mg Sodium.