Spanish cheese: a new twist on cocktail parties

olive oil, cheddar, dried mushroom

by Molly Watson

Spanish cheeses are the new brie and chevre--cult favorites pegged for full cocktail party status. It's about time: No tradition makes better use of cheese in its pure state than Spanish tapas. Transforming a wedge into an hors d'oeuvre with a bit of olive, fruit, or meat is so simple, it may well be the ultimate party food.

Make our platter the center of your next celebration. Estimate about 4 ounces of cheese per person, and be sure to bring the cheeses to room temperature before serving. Choose one accompaniment for each cheese (see our recommendations on page 100), and serve crackers and toasted sliced bread on the side. Cap it off with oloroso sherry. SOURCES: Look for Spanish cheeses (about $15-$18 per pound) at your local cheese shop, at Igourmet.com, or at a Whole Foods Market.

Zamorano

Type: Sheep

Comes from: The province of Zamora in the northwestern corner of Spain

Profile: Tart and zesty, with a crumbly texture, like a mellower aged cheddar

Pair it with: A drizzle of fruity extra-virgin olive oil, a common Spanish accompaniment

Manchego

Type: Sheep

Comes from: La Mancha (of Don Quixote fame) in central Spain

Profile: Piquant, buttery, and nutty, with a soft, crumbly texture

Pair it with: Quince paste works well with Manchego's nutty flavors. Or play up its salty side with olives or serrano ham.

Ideal pairs

Everyone loves a wine and cheese party, yet cheese can be difficult to pair with wine, especially when flavors run the gamut from creamy to sharp. The solution lies in looking beyond the usual suspects.

Our favorite: Spanish alaroso sherry

Why: Its semisweet nuttiness stands up nicely to the assertive flavors of both the cheeses and their briny-to-sweet accompaniments.

Runner-up: Hard apple or pear cider

Why: Hard cider's light, sweet character is a nice counterpoint to the rich intensity of the cheeses.

Wine notes: If you want to offer traditional wines, try a Pinot Noir that is light on tannins and oak, or a Riesling with some residual sugar but plenty of acid and minerals.

Roncal

Type: Sheep

Comes from: The Roncal Valley, near the French border

Profile: Predominantly buttery flavor with a light scent of straw and dried mushroom and a smooth but firm texture. This is one of the oldest known types of Spanish cheese.

Pair it with: Sliced pears or apples

Garrotxa

Type: Goat

Comes from: The Garrotxa area of Catalonia

Profile: A creamy, nutty, and slightly tart cheese with a smooth, semisoft texture

Pair it with: Manzanilla olives are a sharp counterpoint, while a dollop of fig paste brings out Garrotxa's underlying sweetness. For a tangier pairing, try it with anchovy fillets.

Idiazabal

Type: Sheep

Comes from: The Basque region

Profile: Sharp, pungent, and usually smoked, with a dry, crumbly texture